They instantly heat water as it flows through the unit. It will keep heating the water flowing though it indefinitely, on demand. Hot water when you want it.
The main advantages of instant water heaters are a continuous flow of hot water and energy savings (as compared to a limited flow of continuously heating hot water from conventional storage water heaters). Minimizes energy costs by providing hot water only when necessary
When there is a demand for hot water by turning on the stop valve (e.g. when taking a shower) the instant water heater’s water flow switch senses the flow and starts the heating process. Water is heated to the desired temperature as it circulates through the copper heat exchanger providing continuous hot water. When the stop valve is turned off, the instant water heater shuts down.
It is a safety device that will conduct a self-test everytime the heater is switched on. The device will run a self-test on the internal circuit to check if there is any current leakage on all electrical components & parts. The 5 indicator lights would turn Green to show that the system is safe for use. If a problem is detected, these indicator lights turn Red and blink, alerting you to call service or repair.
It is relatively compact. It even fits between wall studs. Without the usual size of restraint of a conventional storage water heater, the instant water heater can be installed almost anywhere. Making it easy to install closer to you where you need hot water, permitting prompt arrival of hot water to your shower, sink, or washing machine (this can also save you on piping for new construction). etc.
Its small size is perfect for limited space applications, such as vacation homes, mobile or modular, offices.
- Raining seasons – Incoming water supply will be cooler compare to normal day thus causing a drop in output temperature.
Turn the temperature control knob to max and reduce water flow rate by
– turn the stop valve’s regulator to a lower flow,
– turn pump speed control to lower speed.
- Too much water flow, high water pressure (more than 40 psi) means higher flow rate or drop in power supply’s voltage. Mains voltage supply too low- below 200 Vac.
*In general, higher water flow rate and low power input (fluctuation of voltage) will cause lower output temperature.
- Different hand shower set is used other than the one supplied by the manufacturer.
Use only hand shower supplied from manufacturer, which hand shower design with a low flow rate of water.
- Loose wiring connection or supply point faulty.
Check / tighten wiring connections at all 6 areas of terminal blocks.
- Dirt particles blocking filter at inlet stop valve.
Remove filter at inlet stop valve and clean.
- Dirt particles blocking hand shower spray.
Rub hand shower rubber nozzle to remove dirt particles. *this procedure must be made with water spraying out from hand shower.
- Interrupted Water Supply.
Check whether the water supply is available, by taking out inlet stop valve connection and check if water supply is available.
- Incoming water supply stop valve, service valve turned off.
Turn on stop valve & service valve.
- Low water supply
Heater require minimum 2 liter per minute or 3 psi to activate flow switch.
- Malfunctioning on Flow Switch (magnet jammed or reed switch failed).
Magnet jammed / dislocated. Replace with new part.
Reed Switch Failure. Replace with new part.
Heater not functioning / both “Heater” and “ELCB” Light are “OFF”, / Pump and heater both not working.
- Interrupted of Power Supply.
Check if unit’s Built in ELCB trip, Mains Distribution Panel On/Off Switch turn off, Mains Distribution Panel’s ELCB Trip, or MCB Overloaded. Check other appliances sharing the same ground network has current leakage, which causing ELCB Trip.
- Thermal Cut- Out 85 º C manual reset has operated.
Reset by pressing button of thermostat. Check root cause of thermal cut-out operated. 4 possibility: Magnet jammed, Reed Switch failure, EC Control board failure, Triac shorted. Replace the components one by one to troubleshoot.
- Unit’s built in ELCB trips.
- Check if current leakage is happening, where heating element burnt, L&E or N&E is connected, or L&N open circuit, replace if -necessary.
- Check if the ELCB is struck by lightning (varistor blown), replace if necessary.
- Check if the ELCB’s fuse is connected, replace if necessary.
- Insufficient water flow, incoming water flow too low, which just able to activate the flow switch.
Dirt particles blocking hand shower spray, or dirt particles blocking filter at inlet stop valve. See 1.1 & 1.2 remedy.
- Increase of incoming water temperature, where water cistern on roof top and it is exposed under the sun.
Turn the temperature control knob to minimum or off and increase water flow rate by
– turn the stop valve’s regulator to a maximum flow.
– turn pump speed control to maximum speed.
- Earth wire in bad connection.
Check earth wire connection (by appointing a qualified electrician)
- Other appliances sharing same earth network having current leakage.
Check other home appliances, whether current leakage has occur to other appliances in the house, which sharing the same earth network.
- Heating element current leakage.
Replace heater tank.
- Wrong wiring during installation or wiring faulty, Live wire touching Earth wire, or Neutral wire touching Earth wire.
Ensure wiring connection is correct and check for faulty wiring.
- Check MCB rated current. The rated current must be 20 ampere for Instant Water Heater.
MCB under rated , proceed to replace if necessary.
- Heating Element burnt and Live & Neutral shorted causing overload of current.
Turn off mains power and proceed to check element resistance. (14.80 to 16.40 Ω for 3.6kW Heater). If not in this range, proceed to change new heating element.